Sounds like a lot of work…heck we will keep riding…365/year….but we are lucky that way. 😉
September 23, 2013
By Tim Watson
It may seem like summer’s barely over, but, if you live somewhere that gets seriously cold, then it’s time to start thinking about putting your bike away for winter. Here’s how to prep your motorcycle for winter storage.
Location, Location, Location
You need to find somewhere covered, dry and protected from the elements. Some people simply park their bikes outside, under a cover. And, modern covers made from high tech materials do a good job of keeping the elements at bay, while allowing air to circulate so moisture doesn’t stick around. But, they can leave your bike vulnerable to harsh winter weather like high winds, falling limbs and drifting snow. Because of that, the best option is simply to get your bike inside somewhere that the weather can’t reach it.
Once you’ve figured out your storage area, follow these steps:
1. Ride your bike one last time, taking care to get it up to full operating temperature. While you’re out, fill the gas tank to almost full, then add a fuel stabilizer once you’re home. This will prevent the fuel from degenerating while protecting the inside of your tank from rust. Run the bike for five more minutes, allowing the stabilizer to mix fully with the fuel. You can buy fuel stabilizers from your local bike dealer, an auto supply store or online.
2. It might be a good idea to give the bike an oil change before you store it. The engine should still be a bit warm from that ride, but cool enough that you can handle it and its parts. Follow the instructions in your owner’s manual, draining the old oil, fitting a new filter and adding new oil. Some recommend using an inexpensive oil for this change as you’ll want to change the oil again in the spring. Once you’re done, start the bike up, let it warm up and the oil will circulate through the engine, providing protection against corrosion.
3. Clean around the cylinder heads and remove the spark plugs. Wipe them down with something like WD40 and squirt some into the cylinders via the spark plug holes. This will keep the cylinder walls lubricated, again protecting against your worst enemy — corrosion. Reinstall the plugs and, if your bike has carbs, now’s the time to make sure the float bowls are drained and the fuel is switched off.
4. Once the exhaust pipes have cooled for the final time, you can spray some WD40 down the exit — just a small amount is sufficient — then cover the ends with plastic bags. This will prevent moisture from creeping through the exhaust and into the engine. To ensure they’re air tight, zip ties or rubber bands can help.
5. Remove the battery from the motorcycle and store it where the temperature does not drop below freezing. If you’re storing your bike in a heated garage or other place where it will not freeze, there’s no need to remove the battery. However, you should clean the terminals and leads, then lubricate them with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. A battery tender is a good idea, too. There’s plenty available online and they’ll maintain your battery’s charge, keeping it in good condition and ready to go once spring arrives.
6. Now’s a good time to wash your bike by hand, then wax the paint. Just make sure it’s 100 percent dry before you cover it up and lock it away. Once it’s dry, go over the metal parts with WD40, applying a light mist to the chain, frame and wheel rims. Don’t apply WD40 to brake rotors, brake pads or tires. If you do accidentally, wipe them dry with a clean cloth.
7. Some people like to place their bikes on a stand for storage, unloading the suspension and tires, while getting the bike off the ground. However, it’s perfectly acceptable simple to park the bike as usual, on it’s side or center stand. Cover it with a breathable cover to keep dust and damp off. Indoor covers can be had for $20 or so.
The final step is probably the hardest. Close the garage door, make sure it’s locked, and start counting the days until you can ride again.
11 thoughts on “How To Prep Your Motorcycle For Winter Storage”
No.6 goes in between No.1 and 2, me thinks. It’s nice to tinker at a clean bike and the oil will be warm enough for draining. Don’t forget to change the oil in the final drive and grease the splines when you have a shaft drive bike. Since storage in NL lasts for max 3 months (and I drive a diesel motorbike) I ‘ll skip No.3 and 4. The bike is stored in a no-frost garage, so moisture isn’t an issue. Since I use a Hawker Odyssee battery there is no need for a trickle charger. As for No.7 I do inflate tyres to the maximum operating pressure and put the bike on a mini lift (it has no centre stand) so most of the weight is off the wheels.
It would be terrible to live somewhere you can’t ride for part of the year!
rub it in LOL
You’re right Leslie, it’s best to run the bike all year round! Vehicles are meant to move and sitting for long periods of time can make them unhappy… But I think this list is more targeted to storing a classic bike – bikes like ours have plastic tanks, fuel injection (no risk of fuel polymerisation in a carburettor), stainless steel exhaust etc so anything beyond giving it a wash, leaving it with 3/4 tank of fuel, putting it on the centre stand and starting the engine every few weeks is probably superfluous…
The one thing I would add, whether riding or storing the bike for the winter, is to coat all the unfinished metal bits (bolt heads, spoke nipples etc) CAREFULLY (without getting any on the tyres/brakes) with something like ACF-50 or a thin film of vaseline. These are the first parts to become unsightly…
I use W40 to coat and protect. Works well as long as it is used carefully too. I use it on the black plastic as well as a little on the painted parts to make the bike shiny
WD40 is good stuff, I also use it as chain cleaner (controversial, I know, but after killing my first chain at 5000 miles due to overly aggressive chain cleaners and a bit too much scrubbing with a nylon brush I vowed never to use a commercial cleaner again) – 7000 miles later the second chain is still like new. ACF-50 protects similarly but is a bit more waxy/tacky and I find it lasts a bit longer in areas hit by road spray/salt.
every year we spend a lot of time cleaning our chains from the superficial rust accumulated from the salt over the winter. Over here I have not found a lube that really truly protects our chains from this annual event. Perhaps I should try and find the ACF-50 product.
Have a look – http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/404/15868/Motorcycle-Article/ACF-50-Corrosion-Preventative-Review.aspx
Oops apologies I hit ‘post’ and tried to cancel before making a small correction but it went through anyway!
I will delete the first one no worries
Reblogged this on Two Wheeled Life.