Antigravity Micro Start Power Supply Review at RevZilla.com


Nice addition to your kit.  After my last trip many recommended I get something like this as I needed to get a jump numerous times.  This is an awesome idea to maintain your independence. I have the XP 1, hopefully will only need it to charge my phone and not jump my bike.  Part of my car kit and bike kit from now on.  😉

http://www.revzilla.com/antigravity-m…

Incredibly easy to use and highly efficient, the Antigravity Micro Start Power Supply is a great tool for any gear closet. Coming in a variety of sizes, powers, and prices, Antigravity has really come in on top of their game with this one and offered up a hugely beneficial accessory that can be utilized in a variety of situations. Look, we all go hard and push our electronic devices along with us, sometimes it helps to have a little mobile jolt to kickstart things back into good working order so that we can be on our way.

Cyclops H7 LED Kit install for BMW F800/ 650 GS – Guest POST


UPDATE:MY LED BULB SEEMED TO HAVE FOGGED MY HEADLIGHT GLASS. THIS WAS AFTER THOUSANDS OF KILOMETERS. NOT SURE I WOUKD USE THIS KIT, Just my opinion.

Cyclops H7 LED Kit install for BMW F800/ 650 GS

Guest BLOGGER installation…thanks Mike for the descriptive install…and shhhh…I was the friend who had an extra LED 😏

LED 1

I was fortunate to have a good friend that had an extra H7 LED kit from Cyclops and thought I would give back by showing a picture install. I did the original install with removing the headlight but thought I would document the installation without the headlight removal as it was equally as fast if not faster.

For this project you will need :

3/8 Drill Continue reading “Cyclops H7 LED Kit install for BMW F800/ 650 GS – Guest POST”

Day 5 – Cops, BLOOD, DOA Battery and then The GENERAL


Day 5 – January 18th 2015

Just like the show COPS

0345 – I hear yelling, screaming outside my room.  Oh wait….back up. Continue reading “Day 5 – Cops, BLOOD, DOA Battery and then The GENERAL”

2015 Countdown and Prep for my WINTER X-sing


Click the pics

Got myself a little entertainment for this trip…my Mini Bose

Yesterday, January 10th, 2015 my new buddy and friend Mike came over to assist with checking over my bike before my trip.  Mike is like family now, met through the virtual world, rode together on a Dual Sport BC ride, have the same dealer and he even bought my ex’s 2013 F800GS White Fluffy bike. 😉  Hopefully he will post some pics of what he has done to that bike.

Hope to leave January 15.

The 2015 Winter Route

Continue reading “2015 Countdown and Prep for my WINTER X-sing”

Canada to the USA….oh, the joys of moving back “home”


Update: I learned how to import vehicles into the USA from Canada today. Not terribly difficult but nonetheless work. I had to contact BMW & Fiat USA to apply for letters of compliance. This was after I called the Canadian divisions because that made sense to me.  NOT! 😒 Compliance letters mean my vehicles meet USA DOT and EPA standards. Both vehicles do.

Fiat_Logo

bmw-williams-bmw-motorsport-cap-blue

However, since my motorcycle and car were not built-in North America I have to pay 2.5% duty on the Kelly Blue Book values. Just another way to tax us. After I decided what State I will live in I will have a letter of import all ready from the border and just have to get them inspected. More money and will have to change the insert for my speedometer to MPH versus KPH. I can get that insert from a BMW and Fiat dealer. Continue reading “Canada to the USA….oh, the joys of moving back “home””

Inexpensive Safety Farkle – It’s good to be Seen


I got these new LED signal inserts for my 2013 BMW F800GS.  I feel the need to deck my bike in LED lights wherever I can.  Presently, I have a LED low beam which has been really great and bright.  My AUX LED on steroids, and now LED signals using inserts.

Weiser LED signal inserts

Continue reading “Inexpensive Safety Farkle – It’s good to be Seen”

AltRider, Bikini Barrista & Chuckanut in the Dark


November 19th 2014 – My Seattle Day Trippin’ to AltRider! 

All pics clickable and videos throughout this post…short clips

Mileage 678 KM’s – left at 0600 and arrive home at 1930.  Weather?  Perfect, cloudy, some sun, cool temperatures and NO RAIN!

I left in the dark and came home in the dark.  LOVE my new Aux lights and the LED low beam.  Truly helped me when I decided to ride a road in Washington called the Chuckanut Drive.  More about that later.

Once again I made an impromptu decision to finally get down to AltRider to meet Erik to get some upper crash bars installed on my bike.  Erik and I tried to arrange this prior to my X Country 2014 Trip  Continue reading “AltRider, Bikini Barrista & Chuckanut in the Dark”

I SURVIVED THE POLAR VORTEX on 2 Wheels


November 14th -16th 2014

In this video if you listen closely I rub my pegs….;-)

Mileage 1178 Km’s

Polar Vortex Route

Continue reading “I SURVIVED THE POLAR VORTEX on 2 Wheels”

CYCLOPS H7 LED Headlight Module Install


I installed the new LED module on my bike but only the low beam.  I felt since I use the low the most in conjunction with my Aux lights I would light up the sky.

IMG_4020

I am going to add one more item…LED signal inserts when the come from Adventure Design

Specs

Lumen Rating         2400 (RAW)

Color temperature   5600K

Power draw             20 watts

Life span                 30,000 hrs

Warranty                18 months

The install is pretty straight forward but I would say the secret is removing the entire head lamp and take it from there because there is a fan and a heat sink that you will need to tuck inside the housing.

LED Continue reading “CYCLOPS H7 LED Headlight Module Install”

Patience pays off – My new Aux Lights & Brackets


Sept 26 2014 – as always all pics can be enlarged for Higher Resolution

I went down to Pacific Morpsorts, my dealer to have George Payne the ed technician install my new lights and attached them to my PDM60.  He initially installed my PD when I asked him last year to organize all my wires under the faux  tank.

The PDM60 unit was designed with one goal in mind: providing the owner with years and years of superior, hassle free electrical performance. The unit provides 6 circuits, totaling 60 Amps, of load handling capability. It is designed to connect directly to a primary (12V) power source (vehicle battery), and efficiently disperse and monitor power to your electrical/electronic applications. Each circuit on the unit has a preset output capacity, determined by the unit programming, and a specific operational behavior; the details of which are specified further in the instructions below.

GOOGLE + SLIDE SHOW

Fenix F4 Light – Just like Rigids

Continue reading “Patience pays off – My new Aux Lights & Brackets”

Drive Chain Maintenance | DRIVE TIME


I use an old tooth-brush to help with my cleaning of the chain…at times I do wish I had a shaft.  I upgraded recently as I did on my BMW F650GS to a DID gold chain and this helps with corrosion especially in my area where I live and seems to last longer than the BMW OEM chain.  I also like the master link idea rather than the continuous link.  Like the fact this article highlights that the chain doesn’t actually stretch….”. (Chains don’t actually stretch; their internal clearances just get bigger.)”

The Missing Links of Chain Maintenance

SOURCE: Motorcyclist

 

Throughout motorcycling’s evolution toward more sophisticated technology, one feature of the earliest motorcycles still hangs in there like a vestigial tail––the drive chain. Simple––if not downright crude––yet efficient, it’s essentially a long string of machined bearing surfaces that lives in a harsh wilderness of water, dirt, infrequent adjustment, and insufficient lubrication. Beneath its often greasy exterior lie vital clues to ensuring its survival and longevity.

Virtually all drive chains for street bikes, dirt bikes, and ATVs use some sort of flexible ring to seal grease in the gap between the pin and the bushing, where the load on the chain is highest. The first such seals were called O-rings because their cross-section is round, but now some chain manufacturers use rings whose cross-section resembles an X or a Z. When a solid O-ring is compressed between the side plates it puts pressure on the chain joint, and can wear into the side plate over time. X- and Z-rings bend or twist when they’re installed between the side plates, so they put less pressure on the joint, wear more slowly, and seal better.

If the sealing ring breaks, the grease leaks out and that particular joint heats up, dries out, and becomes contaminated with water and rust, elongating the pin-to-bushing fit. (Chains don’t actually stretch; their internal clearances just get bigger.) This puts more load on the adjacent joints, and on the sprocket teeth. Sealing rings rarely break, but if they do, you should consider your chain toast; it’s time for a new one.

Cleaning your chain

Cleaning your chain doesn’t have to be a messy job. There are numerous cleaning tools available to make the process quicker, easier, and cleaner.

Savvy maintenance is the key to chain survival. Never clean a chain with a wire brush. Instead use a commercial chain brush (or worn-out toothbrush) to gently remove dirt from the space between the side plates and around the sealing ring. Use kerosene as a solvent, or an all-surface cleaning product like Simple Green, or a dedicated chain-cleaning solution approved for O-ring chains. Never use gasoline. (In a pinch, you can employ WD-40 as a cleaning solvent, but it’s more expensive than using kerosene.) And don’t even think about cleaning the goo off your chain with the high-pressure hose at the car wash. A strong stream of water will blow right past the sealing ring and force out the grease.

The grease behind the sealing ring is meant to last the life of the chain, but you still need to lubricate the chain rollers, which contact the sprocket teeth, and the sealing rings themselves, which can otherwise dry out and crack. Apply lube into the tiny gap on either side of the roller so it penetrates into the space between the roller and the outside of the bushing, then hit the sealing rings on either side of the chain. Do this when the chain is warm so the lube penetrates under the rollers thoroughly and spreads over the sealing rings. Wipe off the excess lube to keep dirt and grit from sticking to the chain. The chain should feel slightly oily to the touch, but not wet.

How often to lube a chain depends on how and where you ride. Every other tank of gas should work for streetbikes; more often for, say, dual-sports ridden off-road. Aerosol chain lube is the most convenient, and the most common. It consists of lubricant in a solvent that thins it out so it penetrates more easily. The solvent quickly evaporates leaving behind a thicker lubricant that’s more of a grease than an oil. But word around the back door of the shop is that regular 80-weight gear oil will do fine. In emergencies you can even transfer oil from your engine’s oil-filler hole to the chain using a screwdriver––just don’t drop it in the crankcase. (That’s the sound of your friends with shaft-drive bikes chuckling.)

Check the chain for slack every time you lube it, and adjust it on an as-needed basis. Some manuals say to do this with the bike on the sidestand, others on the centerstand. If you don’t have the manual, use this racer’s trick: Compress the rear suspension until the rear axle, the swingarm pivot, and the countershaft are lined up. Adjust the chain so there’s 10-15mm slack, then release the suspension and check the slack again. That’s the figure to shoot for next time you adjust the chain with the bike on the stand. Just make sure you use the same stand every time.

 

Slowly but Surely


I am making progress in packing. I know doesn’t seem to be such a huge task and it’s not when all you have to do is focus on a trip. I look forward to the end of this week..many issues will have at least some answers, again personally and then I can figure out what I am coming back too. In the meanwhile after today I will just not care about the personal and focus on myself being fortunate to explore the great continent of North America yet again in 2014.

Continue reading “Slowly but Surely”

BRAND NEW Rox Low Pro 1 3/4″ Pivot Risers FOR SALE


Rox Low Pro 1 3/4″ Pivot Risers for 1 1/8″ Handlebars

MSRP $94 USD, I am asking $65 USD + shipping

Continue reading “BRAND NEW Rox Low Pro 1 3/4″ Pivot Risers FOR SALE”

****SOLD****Brand NEW in BOX Pivot Pegz Mark 3 Pivot Pegs BMW F650GS / F800GS


****SOLD****MSRP $169 USD I am asking $120 + shipping, if not sold in 48 hours I will post these on the ADV Riders & F800 Forum.  I take paypal – MORE good stuff to follow

Pivot Pegz are high performance foot pegs incorporating a unique and precisely tuned, spring loaded pivoting action that allows the foot peg to pivot forward and backward and move with the natural motion of the rider’s feet. A computer designed spring holds the peg in its central (neutral) position and provides optimized resistance and shock absorpsion during the pivoting action. When forward or aft pressure is applied, the peg pivots in a smooth and predictable manner. When pressure is released the peg instantly returns to its central position. The spring loaded action of Pivot Pegz also provides valuable force feedback to the rider and assists in returning their feet to the central position. Continue reading “****SOLD****Brand NEW in BOX Pivot Pegz Mark 3 Pivot Pegs BMW F650GS / F800GS”

BRAND NEW ROWE PDM60 FOR SALE-SOLD


****SOLD***I have this on my bike, neatly installed by my dealer under my faux tank on the F800GS.  I have so far connected to the PDM60 my GPS, heated gear and will eventually connect my Aux lights.  All set to be turned off with the ignition key. **IF NOT SOLD IN 48 HRS WILL BE POSTED ON THE ADV RIDER AND F800 FORUMS***

READ A REVIEW HERE: RoadRUNNER

Package only opened to take pictures.  RETAILS $199 USD, I am asking $150 USD plus shipping. 

Rowe Electronics PDM60 Power Distribution Module

Continue reading “BRAND NEW ROWE PDM60 FOR SALE-SOLD”

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