Top 10 Must-See Destinations on an Alaska Motorcycle Trip


Alaska native, tour guide and travel author shares his top spots for ADV Riders.

SEE Original post here: ADV PULSE

Thanks to Gary from AK for leading me to this article.

Published on 09.22.2015
Welcome to your Alaska Motorcycle Trip

 I have been fortunate to have been able to ride most of these roads while in Alaska in 2011.  Nice to read a seasoned riders recommendations.  Once you have been to Alaska it will forever be embedded in you memory as an epic ride.

Alaska always seems to come up as a top bucket list destination for Adventure Riders and it’s easy to see why. America’s “Last Frontier” offers vast untouched natural beauty and pristine landscapes that are unsurpassed in North America. With endless miles of challenging routes to explore, an adventure motorcycle is the perfect tool to fully experience all Alaska has to offer. Here are ten must-see destinations for any Adventure Rider interested in taking an Alaska motorcycle trip.

1. Prudhoe Bay

Pruhoe Bay Alaska motorcycle tripCourtesy Phil Freeman

This is the farthest north you can ride a motorcycle on the continent. The road is 414 miles long out of Fairbanks, and throws at you broken chip seal and a calcium chloride infused dirt surface. It also is the mother lode of sloppy grater and water truck road construction and wind blasting semis, headed to the bay. This is one destination you don’t want to skip on your Alaska motorcycle trip! It offers excellent remote scenery and does not bore; the view is just as good going up as it is going back south. But don’t try to do this ride all in one sitting, many riders have attempted it, and many have succumbed to either road conditions or stamina.

Courtesy Phil Freeman

2. Denali Highway

Denali Highway Alaska motorcycle tripCourtesy Phil Freeman

This is the original entrance to Denali National Park and is over 120 miles of dirt loveliness. The scenery is epic, the remoteness is real (yes, you are now part of the food chain) and stopping and exploring along the way is off the charts. The Alaska Range parallels this entire ride, and offers scene after scene of quintessential “Alaska.” There are mining roads that meander this way and that, off the main road, which make for hard-core adventure. Do not go alone into this world; bring a buddy, and the willingness to adventure! Stay over at Gracious House (mile 82) and save a day or two for exploring from there. Pack a fly rod if you are into that kind of thing. Bring a camera: you will be seeing some furry friends.

3. Manley Hot Springs

Manley Hot SpringsCourtesy Phil Freeman

This town was started around the turn of the last century as a stop-over for gold seekers. It is a veritable oasis in the midst of unadulterated wilderness. The Road House in Town offers refuge, camping, food and bar. A dip in the hot springs is worth every cent and is a very unique experience. There are two roads worth exploring: The road to Tofty and the road to Ruby (Wyatt Earp’s famed Gold Rush Residence). Mind “No Trespassing” signs, as you are riding through gold mining country. Gear up light, get on your pegs and get ready for some great jeep trails! Never hurts to talk to the locals as conditions change out on these far, outpost roads.

4. Central

Bear Crossing the Road CentralCourtesy Phil Freeman

This is the unsung hero of adventure riding in Alaska. It is remote, rugged, and the Alaska Flags replace the American ones. The people are hardy, welcoming and will help you seek out some fantastic jeep two-track stuff that fans out from the main road. If you go out there, plan for a couple of days riding. The old gold mining roads out there allow you to access places that literally no one goes to anymore. Make sure to check out Circle City on the Yukon out there. Ride out in the morning and get ready to see some critters.

5. McCarthy

McCarthy General Store Alaska motorcycle tripCourtesy Phil Freeman

This destination is a MUST. It is the old miner’s entertainment town that services the Copper mine at Kennicott, just up the hill. The road out there is a 60-mile dirt blast, the base of which is the old railroad that used to service the mine until the late 30’s. Make sure to stop at the Kuskulana Bridge and check out the cat walks underneath. This is a step back in time, and the best thing about it is that only motorcycles can get across to the town and mine! You may cross at the pedestrian bridge; just make sure there is no one on it. The town is locked in time and the mine is amazing. Take some time there and consider the tour of the mine building at Kennicott. Also, enjoy the old wagon road that links the mine with the town, and passes by the old cemetery. Truly ADV stuff here.

6. Hope

Hope Road in Alaska motorcycle tripCourtesy Phil Freeman

This old gold mining town has seen more prosperous days, but if you like stepping back in time, watching bald eagles, salmon climbing up the river and riding dirt roads through the mountains, this is your spot. Make sure to stop by the Seaview Cafe for seafood chowder or pie at Tito’s Cafe. The ride up Palmer Creek Road is fun and ends in old gold mining ruins. This is a great day ride out of Anchorage, but it’s not bad for an overnight stay either.

7. Petersville Road

View of Mt. McKinley 'Denali' from Petersville Rd Courtesy Timothy Wildey

This is an access road out of Trapper Creek which offers south facing views of Mt. McKinley. It climbs to above tree line and veers west down Cache Creek. It offers on-the-pegs riding, creek crossings and general ADV fun. You can easily spend a couple of days back there exploring trails.

8. Top of the World Highway

Top of the World Highway Alaska Motorcycle TripCourtesy Phil Freeman

Ride from Tok to Dawson and experience great dirt and paved roads that offer broad views and history. Make sure to leave a couple of hours to ride to Eagle on the Yukon River. Dawson itself is a treat and worth a couple of days. Take the Solomon Mine 60-mile circuit out of town and visit the original gold strikes on a dirt road just made for the ADV rider. Make sure to drop by the Downtown Hotel and get yourself a “Sourdough Cocktail” (a drink with a human toe in it!) – You are now an honorary Sourdough!

9. Crown Point

Harding Ice Field in Crown Point AlaskaCourtesy Madeleine Deaton

This is not a long ride but huge in the scale of epic. Ride through Moose Pass on the Kenai Peninsula south, and once out of town you cross the Trail River Bridge and take left. Follow for a couple miles and take the first left. It is just an ATV trail, so come riding light, and get ready to climb thousands of feet to an old gold mine which overlooks Kenai Lake and the Harding Ice Field. Simply amazing.

10. Nabesna Road

Nabesna Road Alaska Motorcycle TripCourtesy Phil Freeman

This is a 40-mile jaunt into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. The park itself is impressive, harboring 9 of the 16 tallest peaks on the continent, and is the largest preserve in the United States. The road starts out civil, then throws at you dirt surface and stream crossings, and turns to “rustic”. At the end of the road, past the airstrip, take off your riding boots and put on some hiking shoes and explore the old gold mines up there. There are places in which the miners just left everything behind, and now nature is taking over. This ride is notable as the finish is much more scenic than the start.

Phil Freeman MotoQuestAbout the Author: MotoQuest founder Phil Freeman is an adventurer through and through. Born and raised in Alaska, Phil boasts more than 20 years experience traveling Alaska by motorcycle, and co-authored the award-winning book “The Adventurous Motorcyclist’s Guide to Alaska.” MotoQuest offers guided motorcycle tours around the world and motorcycle rentals in the West Coast of the U.S. For more information, visit motoquest.com

Best “Backyard” Riding Ever!


September 28th 2014 (all pics click-able for Hi-Rez) I woke up to a very FOGGY and misty morning.

How my morning started out

My usual early rising…I manage if lucky to get about 4-5 hours a sleep a night.  Long story but anyway….I checked the weather out and the weather people did predict the sun would shine eventually.  So, what to do?  What else, find someone to take care of my dogs and plan on riding a 700 KM day trip.  I need to power ride once in awhile, especially when I FEEL the need to go on a LONG trip like I do now.  Not possible but let’s make the best of this day and I did.

I know I could see the sun starting to burn off the fog

Continue reading “Best “Backyard” Riding Ever!”

It’s not getting any easier…


MiserySubheds

Dear Blog…my journal about everything.  Since January 30th 2014 I have been consumed with the hurt that comes with a separation of a relationship I thought was supposed to be forever.  As our legal issues get closer to a close, I can’t help to but feel even sadder.  Time certainly has past by, I am hesitant to even talk about my separation to anyone because it feels so old news.  I feel at this point I am becoming a burden on others and I can sort of tell.  Even when I reach out…at times specifically ask to talk I no longer have the few who used to respond.  Continue reading “It’s not getting any easier…”

Final Day & Reflections


May 17 2014 – June 15th 2014 (2014 X Country Solo Trip) if you make to the bottom you will see some stats or you can scroll down not read this wordy post and cut to the chase. 😉

I got a big smooch from Sierra when I arrived home…

My good luck charm came with me the entire trip and I now wear it everyday too…nice people gave this to me…really nice!

IMG_3306 Continue reading “Final Day & Reflections”

Day 25 – Making New Memories


Reposting this so it’s in order and I think it deserves another post!

Badlands, SD and Blackhills

I am not a writer by far, I am a person who uses my blog as away to document my passion for riding and my other passions, my life, home, dogs, work and wildlife.  It’s my journal into my life even though I share it with well, the “world” to read. Making new memories?  Yep…this will sound funny but I like to stream pics through my Apple TV.  I am getting tired of seeing all my trips with my ex other half.  I am looking forward to actually streaming while listening to my music new pics…pics of trips I take alone versus the past.  So, yes…Making new memories as Leslie only.

I want to try something new.  I want to start focusing on my future especially since yesterday June 10th will now be the anniversary of my dog Cruizers death. I spent last night texting my “support” system back home in both directions.  West and East.  I tried to face time my folks to let them know I was Okay but no answer.  I had my sister-in-law call them after I heard the news.

My parents and I think for the most part have witnessed how Cruizer and I got along. 😉  I received a face time request from a friend/colleague and to my surprise she was in the office where almost my entire team was present.  I have not been very present at work over the last 5 months to be honest.  That too is something I want to get back, my passion for organ donation and my new role as family support program director/developer.  I have had a buddy or two all along this trip to remind me to eat and rest.  They know who they are and with everyone I feel this trip, my blog, FB and the readers on the ADV Rider forum it’s been a solo trip with many following. I kind of like that, best of both worlds.

RIP April 30 2004 – June 10 2014

This was the view where I was when I heard about Cruizer.  At least I was thinking wow this is a little like a piece/slice of heaven only to realize that Cruizer was all ready there…

My view when I learned Cruizer died

 

As I head home I been listening to the final chapters of “Ghost Rider”, by Neil Peart.  I have an hour left.  A truly well written or in my case well audible book that if you have experienced loss and ride a motorcycle, then you could not help to relate to the way he went about trying to heal and mend his broken heart.  I only wish I could write like Neil.  His attention to details about his first cross-country trip to Alaska and beyond was truly amazing.  I have taken a bike to many of the places he went to but never paid the same attention.  I learned so much about what he saw, what I saw too and listened intently to his details.  Was as if I never been to those places when I heard how he described them.

The most important lesson I am learning from this book is he had it worse than me.  Ok, let’s rephrase that because it’s so easy to get caught up in a bit of a grief competition.  I heard from a wise teacher there is no rewards for speed when it comes to grief it’s not a competition.  Grief belongs to the individual no matter what the loss.  I have to remind myself of that because I am after all competitive by nature, stereotypical Type A, need to control my surroundings…well, you get the gist.

I left on May 17th, 2014 for a ride across the country.  I had pre-determined places to stop and tried to meet as many people on the road as I could.  I missed many who tried to accommodate my day-to-day route planning, and many of my wants to meet people fell through.  I think I may have hurt some feelings by not making a connection and I am sorry for that, I really am but in the end it turned out to be sort of impossible.

I am going to try from now on leave the name Cheryl out of my posts.  The main purpose of my endurance ride was to shed the hurt and pain I suffered and still do to a degree when she left.  I need to as a wise woman said to me in Geneva, NY….”put that away”.  I am or let’s be honest I am trying for sake of me, my job, the people who care and worry about me.

Yesterday, I awoke really early to ride the Badlands National Park before all the cagers (cars) woke up.  I succeeded in a big way.  I had the park for almost my entire ride and exploration to myself with a few cyclists.  Not sure if many know this but the park is open 24 hours a day because it’s used by truckers as a “short cut” and is part of the main highway system out there.

Badlands National Park is a national park in southwestern South Dakota that protects 242,756 acres of sharply eroded buttes, pinnacles, and spires blended with the largest undisturbed mixed grass prairie in the United States. Wikipedia

It was a cool, crisp morning, 12.5 C or 54.5 F and the sky was clear, blue a sunny.

I went here as a side trip because I was asked to and I am glad I did.  I was told maybe I would feel some sort of spiritual connection with the Native American history of the park.  Not sure about that part but I did allow myself to slow down and take the rare beauty of this area in.  I was for the first half of my ride as they say, “stopping to smell the roses”.  Perhaps Cruizer was telling me to so I could have the soulful experience most tell me I would before I would hear of those “bad” words, Cruizer has died.

The sun was still rising by the time I got into the park.  I am certain if you go here, depending on the time of day, sunlight etc, this park would take on a different appearance each time.  Without cagers, without the tourist traffic jams I have to say it was magical.  As a solo rider I have found when I am around large groups of people who do not ride my type of bike, I feel I have nothing in common with them.  I get the weirdest questions and I also get Kudos from travelers who wished they were on a bike like mine and my trip.  Many men who were driving an RV would say to me in secret, “if I could only ditch the family for a month or two I could be on a trip like you”.  I think they mean that in a loving caring way and I know many dream about taking off for a month or more like I do.  My response is find a way to make a trip you dream about without hurting anyone’s feelings.

Trips like this can be seen as egocentric.  In my case I am egocentric…I mean I am the one in crisis right?  Time to move on from that too…thinking it’s all about me is getting to be annoying not only I am sure to those I talk to most but to me as well.  I annoy me.  “Pull yourself up” Leslie.  You are stronger than you think.  I hear this all the time but need to absorb how others see me.  “You suck at taking compliments”.  I think many of us do.  All good observations, all ones I will pay more attention to as I move forward into my “new normal”.

meet Dan

Jumping ahead for second, meet Dan.  I decided at the last-minute and I mean last-minute as I would have missed to exit off I-90 to ride the scenic by way through the Blackhills.  A very fine twisty road made for a little speed and lot’s of leaning into curves.  I loved it and as for the cars?  Well, they were easily passed with a little touch of the throttle so I could ride the curves with little interruption.

The above picture I met Dan from Kentucky.  Riding an old school BMW, forgot to ask what year, that he rebuilt for his adventure.  Dan struck me as a bit of a lost soul as I began talking to him.  I told him about my dog but nothing about the real reason behind this trip.  He began to tell me, because I asked of course what he was doing out and about.  Turns out he is unemployed.  He used to teach math/sciences to high school kids but realized he does not want to teach.  Dan is smart….really smart but is out riding his Beemer to figure his own life direction.  I felt for him but found some peace when I found out he feels the same as me about riding.  Passion or obsession…either way it is better than drinking or drugging.

We chatted awhile, he then went north I went south only to run into one another heading west on I-90 hours later.  We rode me in the lead until Wyoming…we just simply waved to one another and I tried to take his picture while riding but I don’t see it on my camera.  That sucks.  In any case while I turned off at the visitors area he continued west, waved good bye and that was it.  I wish him luck in finding himself.  That is what he is doing, trying to figure it all out.  Amazing how many of us use our bikes as a therapeutic tool.  Listen to Ghost Rider, he did.  I have an hour left by the way before that book is done.

This morning I can say this appeared to be the road less traveled.  I pretended it was because like I said most people were still sleeping by the time I packed up to ride. I even saw a few awake, humans that is stretching and yawning as I passed campgrounds.

It doesn’t take long to see why this place is one to be visited.  It is like a grand canyon of sorts above the land and down below.  It’s pretty cool how mother nature continues to erode this area and changing its form slowly each year.  Today it was not windy, it was a perfect day to ride.

You can see a cyclist in this pic. Probably wondering about.  I did not hike the trails, was planning on doing that later on in the park but half way through when I heard about my dog, my focus was on my house sitters, my dog and me.

If I had longer I would have ridden more of their dirt roads which had signs warning you that these dirt roads were meant to be on only in dry weather.  I would imagine they would easily flood.  Felt good to ride dirt even for a few hours versus thousands of Km’s.  I will take it…this has been a long ride mileage wise.  One I could only do in my time by riding asphalt and keeping up some speed.

My view of the Badlands park gallery style…

 

I left the pavement, which I am sure many GS riders will be happy to hear for the dirt of the Badlands.  “Road is for dry weather only” the signs say.  It was dry and perfect weather as far as was concerned.  My new tires loved the mud and gravel.  Nothing technical but if you weren’t paying attention, look where you want to go kind of thing, you could easily get caught in the HUGE ruts in the mud.

I like riding two-track roads.  I like going where most cars won’t although these roads most could.  In any case I still had these roads to myself and it was quite peaceful. I use the word peaceful a lot these days because I always feel as of late to be in turmoil.  One drama after another.  Dramatic yeah…that is how I feel I am behaving…so dramatic and overly emotional.  Internal conflict I struggle with and need to hear I will be OK with my new life.  Life now without Cruizer.

The dirt makes every BMW GS bike a happy bike with a rider who also becomes happy too.  Again for all the non riders out there.  It’s hard to explain the freedom a motorcycle can bring to ones psyche. It’s about feeling where you ride versus being a passive observer.  Being part of the climate, the smells and yes the weather is all part of it making even the same ride feel different every time you do it on a bike.

Road to no where it seemed but it led to others just like it.  I bet you could ride all day back here and not be seen but I had to get back to reality…soon after this little off-road stint I got the news from home and then most everything else became a blur.

Frantic texting to home about the necropsy, the colour of the urn, do I want a paw print etc.  I have had three cats I put down due to illness and never really thought about getting their ashes back or paw prints.  But this was easy for me…the answer was yes to everything and I told Taylor and Dave pick the colour of the urn.  You loved Cruizer like me.

Another challenge for me lies ahead.  Keep my head on straight, focus on riding now my woes to get home.  Getting home also is creating a little anxiety because everything that has happened since I left I get to see…furniture moved out and now one less dog.  It’s tempting to “quit” life and stay on the road but I need to face reality and make sure that this ride was not wasted.  That this personal challenge to ride solo across the country can be of some use in my everyday life.  We will find out soon enough.

My bike turned 24,000 KM’s on this day…# 25.  I will get back to days 22-24 at some point but since I was up early, have this ride fresh in my mind, I don’t take notes…I thought get day 25 out there.  I will pack up soon…it’s now 0512, have some breakfast and then off I go.  Good news…weather for the region over the next few days is actually to be on the cool side.  No high 30 C or 90 F.  Somewhere between 70-80 or 20′s C.  For that I have to be thankful…I am not a great rider in the blaring sun and heat.  Cooler weather I could ride forever.

I forgot to add I did stop at Wall Drug but by this time I was so upset and crying I think I was freaking the tourists out.  I had a quick bite to eat and left this town as it was filling up with strangers. 😉

So, this day I dedicate to my beloved Cruizer and ride with him for him.  I never say I love you enough to most humans…so, I do love my human friends and family don’t get me wrong…but the love I felt for Cruizer was different.  I have to work hard to hold back my tears right now.  can’t ride with puffy eyes.  I hope I can compartmentalize today and make some ground.  Until next time…thanks for reading…

PS…My tires loved the dirt….

 

Continue reading “Day 25 – Making New Memories”

Day 25 – Making New Memories


Badlands, SD and Blackhills

I am not a writer by far, I am a person who uses my blog as away to document my passion for riding and my other passions, my life, home, dogs, work and wildlife.  It’s my journal into my life even though I share it with well, the “world” to read. Making new memories?  Yep…this will sound funny but I like to stream pics through my Apple TV.  I am getting tired of seeing all my trips with my ex other half.  I am looking forward to actually streaming while listening to my music new pics…pics of trips I take alone versus the past.  So, yes…Making new memories as Leslie only.

I want to try something new.  I want to start focusing on my future especially since yesterday June 10th will now be the anniversary of my dog Cruizers death. I spent last night texting my “support” system back home in both directions.  West and East.  I tried to face time my folks to let them know I was Okay but no answer.  I had my sister-in-law call them after I heard the news.

My parents and I think for the most part have witnessed how Cruizer and I got along. 😉  I received a face time request from a friend/colleague and to my surprise she was in the office where almost my entire team was present.  I have not been very present at work over the last 5 months to be honest.  That too is something I want to get back, my passion for organ donation and my new role as family support program director/developer.  I have had a buddy or two all along this trip to remind me to eat and rest.  They know who they are and with everyone I feel this trip, my blog, FB and the readers on the ADV Rider forum it’s been a solo trip with many following. I kind of like that, best of both worlds.

RIP April 30 2004 – June 10 2014

This was the view where I was when I heard about Cruizer.  At least I was thinking wow this is a little like a piece/slice of heaven only to realize that Cruizer was all ready there…

My view when I learned Cruizer died

Continue reading “Day 25 – Making New Memories”

How many have seen this sign?


And did you make the turn NORTH???? We will be back one day….

How many have seen this sign too? Continue reading “How many have seen this sign?”

Time to Plan Your Trip To Alaska is NOW!


If you do plan on going to Alaska in the Summer of 2014 promise us you will ride this road….take a look at one of our posts from our trip in 2011….if you don’t want to read the entire post scroll down to the McCarthy-Kennicott section…you will thank us if you ride this road…;-) Many pass up this little side trip and we don’t know why.  If you have been on this road feel free to comment.

July 27th 2011

It was a good thing we decided to motel it last night.  It poured in Valdez all night.  As for Cheryl and myself we do not feel the need to camp in the rain on a holiday because, well, it just makes us miserable and not worth it.  Our trucker neighbour finally settled down in his room around 12.  Motel walls are so thin!  When we woke up it was really foggy but you could see the sun.  Had a bite to eat at the motel restaurant and headed out to the Salmon Hatchery about 5 miles out of Valdez to see if there were any bears or otters around.

July 27 11 Valdez to Chitina (132)

July 27 11 Valdez to Chitina (133) Continue reading “Time to Plan Your Trip To Alaska is NOW!”

How tall is too tall?


Most pics can be enlarged!

I have been asked many times “how can you ride such a tall bike”?  So, I have put together some pics to try to show as close as I can with the specs I know what I might look like on all the recent bikes I have owned or “borrowed”.  My height is 5’5″, well almost 5’5″ 😉 with an in seam of 30.5 inches. 

cropped-img_0170.jpg

Cheryl is about 5’5″ and her in seam is 31.5.  Big difference when it comes to our ’13 BMW F800GS bikes.  She has more footing than I will ever have.  So, this post is for the vertically challenged.

I have hopes that a few in seam inches will not deter anyone from buying the bike of their dreams…where there is a will there is a way.  Trust me I should know…I am shortish and I have ridden successfully, comfortably, confidentially and most Continue reading “How tall is too tall?”

How to combat the killer Mosquitoes in the North


Back in 2011 when we rode to Alaska we were fortunate to only run into the mosquito swarm once near the Atigun Pass.  We were armed with two of these shirts just in case.  The draw back to not being attacked by these “killer”, huge bugs was that we rode in cold rain almost the entire trip.  You never know what season it will be up there if you are planning a trip.  You need to prepare for HOT, warm, cold to down right freezing weather. 

If you have sun and warmth on your adventure, then there is a good chance you will have mosquitoes.  This shirt may seem like over kill, no pun intended but from those who have had to use it swear by them…we did not have to use ours but it will be a staple item if we venture back up-country.

CHECK out bugshirt.com for this shirt

The Original Bug Shirt®: Elite Edition

Driven – The Arctic Circle


Every once in awhile I come across a video that just resonates with me…I mean everyone should watch this especially if you are an adventurer.  This guy Ed from New Mexico rode 10,000 miles in 26 days and how he sees Canada and Alaska is spot on.  I LOVE, absolutely LOVE his attitude, sense of humor….I mean everything about his heart and soul.  I really hope everyone who takes a look at this post takes the time to sit back and watch….it is soooooo worth it trust me.

I think this is my most favorite ADV video I have seen so far….and I loved seeing where we went through his eyes….BRAVO!

Adventure Riding Night


 Pacific motorsports. Vancouver BMW Triumph Aprilia Moto Guzzi Husqvarna MV Agusta dealer logo

Events and News


I am honored to be invited to speak at PACIFIC MOTOSPORTS our BMW dealer.

Free food, KLIM there and the intro of the new BMW 1200GS, plus me!  Cheryl is still in Ottawa but I get to share many pictures and stories about our Adventure riding endeavors!  What would be better than being around like minded folks/riders….good food and a great dealer?  Ummm…Cheryl being there but I think I can handle it!  😉

Hope some readers of this blog who are local will come down on Friday, March 22!  I think it’s going to be a fun night!

Special Guest speaker: LESLIE SOFARELLI

Friday, March 22, 2013 (6pm – 9pm)

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